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Attic Spray Foam Insulation
Earth-Friendly Technology that reduces energy consumption up to 50%
Our expert technicians use industry-leading materials to deliver a seamless, air-tight seal, maximizing energy efficiency and creating a more comfortable living environment for you and your family. Schedule your free estimate today and start experiencing the benefits of exceptional insulation!
Spray Foam Insulation in the Attic
Alaska is an extreme environment compared to the rest of the US, and as such a lot of the conventional building science rules for insulation in attics do not apply to our area, and can even harm your roof if it's insulated to a warm environment standard (Florida, Arizona) instead of a proper cold environment standard.
Standard Attics
An attic that has a standard attic truss is one that you see all the time. The roof pitch typically ranges from 4/12 on the low end, and 8/12 to sometimes even 12/12 on the high end. The general recommended approach for our area is to install baffles at the eaves for ventilation, and install loose blown fiberglass or cellulose to the attic deck since cost can be so much cheaper than spray foam.
For a typical attic, we at Polyseal strongly recommend this approach. It is cost effective, and the system works well with this truss design. It is imperative to have a class="fontcolorlight">poly vapor barrier installed as well if you go with loose blown insulation, but overall, the system works great through-out a typical Alaskan year.
Cathedral/Vaulted Attics
This is a roof design where the interior ceiling is vaulted - this is common in great room/living room areas of new construction, and typically involves a scissor chord or parallel chord truss design. With this design, space is much more limited to properly insulate so spray foam can have much better value than fiberglass alternatives. If there is enough space, it's still generally best practice in Alaska to install baffles with a 1.5-2" minimum airspace to the underside of the roof deck, and then install spray foam from there for the overall best design.
Vented Vs. Non-Vented Roofs
This is where things get tricky with our climate. Generally speaking, in a typical Alaskan winter a ventilated attic assembly is the best route to go, barring extreme conditions like ice fog that Fairbanks area can be prone to. (in this case, the fog can accumulate in the ventilation space, melt, freeze again at the eaves, and cause ice-damming issues). Most of the rest of Alaska wont typically experience this so it is still best to ventilate when there is the space and design for it.
The reason its best to ventilate is non-ventilated "hot roof" assemblies can be much more prone to ice damming if high snow loads occur, since the snow itself acts as an insulator, and creates a melting/freezing zone at the exterior side of the roof deck. In some cases, vapor drive will cause moisture to get trapped in the assembly and cause roof rot - two insulation types where this can happen are fiberglass applications, and high density closed cell applications - more on that later.
What if you can't ventilate?
In the case of steel buildings where the roof is a steel purlin "ladder truss" design, ventilation isn't possible since airflow is blocked off. Other structures can have this same design or very limited space - cabins, hand framed 2x6 rafters, etc. In these cases, if one uses fiberglass, the necessity of installing a poly vapor barrier can easily allow for water to get trapped in the insulation assembly through weak spots in the barrier; mostly around light fixtures or plugs. This can easily lead to roof rot and serious sweating/condensation issues. TRY TO AVOID A HOT ROOF WITH FIBERGLASS!
If one decides to use closed cell foam instead, some of the same issues can occur. Closed cell foam is amazingly impermeable to water, but vapor drive can still cause moisture to drive up along the rafter studs and accumulate between the foam and roof deck - because closed cell is so good at stopping water, this essentially traps the water and can lead to roof rotting in some cases as well. Because of this, we also don't recommend a closed cell hot roof - it's better than fiberglass, but can still cause major headaches and expensive tear-outs.
So what is the best option for a non-vented hot roof?
The best option is a very expensive ventilated roof overbuild, which is in few people's budgets. The next best option is an open cell foam. More specifically, a 3/4lb open cell hybrid foam; its higher R-value/overall better than the standard 1/2lb, but still retains all of the beneficial properties. If 3/4lb foam is applied directly to the roof deck, the vapor drive that happens with closed cell CAN and will still happen. But this foam has the unique properties of not only being a really good insulator, but also breathable, like almost akin to a gor-tex membrane.
Because of this, the moisture won't stay trapped in the foam and the assembly will dry out during the freeze/thaw cycle and be good as new. Of course, if you don't have enough insulation and a heavy snow load, ice damming can still very much occur. With the sheer amount of extra snow in the past few winters we have experienced, we have been increasing the amount of spray foam in steel building roofs to combat that melting point. In general, if one does have ice damming its still always a good idea to shovel the snow and expose the ice – it will evaporate on its own without any need to chip it and potentially damage your roof.
Energy Savings
A vented attic situation will become approximately 130-140 degrees in the summer. There is no reason for your air-conditioning and vent-ductwork to have to work in that type of severe conditions. There is also an opportunity for moisture to form due to condensation on these appliances.
By applying spray foam directly to the underside of the roof deck, it now insulates the attic space from the extreme heat that once radiated through the hot shingles sheathing and roof. The severe temperatures no longer exist in the attic. In short, the attic now becomes a passively "conditioned" space of the house that is just as comfortable as any other room in the home.
A roof system insulated with spray foam reduces energy several ways. Energy loss from ducts located in the attic is essentially eliminated. The top of the building is much tighter resulting in less infiltration and exfiltration, so excess moisture isn't pulled into the attic. Infiltration through the ceiling is also reduced. In addition, the attic temperature is remarkably lower, which further reduces energy loads.
Conduction, Convection, and Radiant Heat Transfer
In a standard insulation system, ceiling insulation reduces the transfer of heat from the attic to the living space (in the summer). Attic temperatures can often approach 140 degrees or more during the day. Most of this heat enters the attic space through a multi-step process.
First, solar energy warms the shingles and sheathing. The hot sheathing then transfers heat to the rest of the attic through conduction, convection, and radiant heat transfer. The 140-degree temperature of the underside roof surface drives the heat transfer process that pulls air in from all the openings in a house, costing you a lot of money.
By having insulate the roof surface with spray foam, the surface temperature exposed to the attic (the temperature driving the heat transfer) is reduced by as much as 40 degrees.
Both conduction and convection heat transfer are proportional to a temperature difference, so that heat transfer will be reduced proportional to the drop in surface temperature.
Sealing the attic is the single most cost-effective solution for lower energy bills and a comfortable home.
Standard Home Vented attic graphic showing the natural convection process that allows air to be 'pulled' up through the house and escaping outside.
Unvented Attic System Unvented attic graphic showing an insulation roof deck and airtight attic that does not allow air to escape the building.
The benefits of including the attic in the insulated space are:
Building Science Experts
Nobody understands the science of building better than .
If you want to build a thermally efficient and airtight home, it's not enough just to insulate. You must choose the right insulation and air sealing system for the application, and be sure it's properly installed.
Did you know.. An improperly insulated and sealed home delivers 4500 lbs. of excess greenhouse gases into the air each year? It can also waste 20 percent or more of the energy used to heat and cool the home.
Our Building Science experts understand the principles of heat, air and moisture flow, and how the building envelope interacts with a building's mechanical systems as well as its occupants.
N.A.S.A. applied one-inch of spray-on foam insulation on the Space Shuttle's External Tank that serves to insulate the tank. The closed-cell foam used on the tank was developed to keep the Shuttle's liquid hydrogen fuel at minus 423 degrees Fahrenheit and the liquid oxygen tank at near minus 297 degrees Fahrenheit even as the tank sits under the hot Florida sun while preventing a buildup of ice on the outside of the tank.
Properly insulating and sealing your homes with Spray Foam is a greener alternative.
We can help you in specifying the right insulation system for our local climate. Call or Fill Out Our Contact Form to Get in Touch with our Building Science experts.
It is now well established and accepted by most architects and builders that controlling air infiltration is the best and most cost-effective means of reducing wasteful heat loss and providing a comfortable indoor environment.
Most architects tend to design structures that are tight and energy efficient by incorporating the latest in proven, energy saving construction details into their drawings.
Unfortunately, too many buildings still perform poorly. Why is this?
We have found that since there is no performance specification to dictate building construction, there is no guarantee when it comes to building performance. Regardless of the contractor's ability, tight buildings are not created from a list of materials and drawings in the absence of specifications that dictate the building's designed environmental performance.
takes a different approach
To improve building performance, our company focuses on the basic building science principle that air infiltration compromises the effectiveness of the building envelope. Our approach is incremental - areas of infiltration are diagnosed and fixed in order of magnitude. This provides the most thorough and cost-effective solution possible.
has satisfied clients. Our clients have been extremely pleased as they benefit from cost-savings and an immediate improvement in comfort.
We operate two-part urethane injection equipment to superinsulate new and old buildings. Included in this equipment are special nozzles and guns to seal cracks and small openings which effectively stops infiltration that cause poor thermal performance.
There are other urethane contractors who provide typical spray foam services; however, very few go beyond the installation of conventional spray-roofing and spray-wall insulation processes.
Our capabilities, while serving these common markets in some cases, are specially designed to meet the unconventional needs of specialty markets.
By employing standard and custom equipment which processes foam through both spray and injection techniques, we can utilize numerous chemical systems with varying densities, speeds, closed-cell content, fire rating, vapor permeability, and other desirable environmental characteristics.
While there may be other foam contractors who provide spray and injection services, to the best of our knowledge, we are the only company that currently uses "ratio monitoring" equipment in the field for this process. Ratio monitoring enables our technicians to maintain the exact chemical formulation (mix) for the duration of the installation process.
It is impossible to guarantee that the appropriate mix is being maintained without the use of this equipment.
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PREMIER INSULATION
We start with a complimentary, in-home consultation with one of our licensed insulation experts. You will be quoted fair prices - with no hidden fees - and provided with a reasonable installation timeline from start to finish. Our estimates are sent directly to your email inbox, where you can see line-item pricing as well as terms and conditions.
We Keep Our Promises
Trust is the cornerstone of our long-term success. We have served thousands of happy clients and look forward to serving you!
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WE DO IT RIGHT
We show up on time, maintain a tidy job site and perform high-quality work.
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Keeping you and your family safe is the most important thing we do.
WE STAND BEHIND OUR WORK
has the best warranties in the business.
WE GUARANTEE YOUR SATISFACTION
Frequently Asked Questions
spray foam insulation is professionally installed at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation. That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed, but before the interior walls are completed in new home construction. In some cases spray foam also can be applied in older homes, to the inside of roofs and under floors after construction has been completed.
A two-part mixture is applied by trained applicators to the inside surface of exterior walls, to the underside of the roof, and beneath floors in basements and crawlspaces. The spray mixture expands rapidly to fill all cracks and voids, completely and permanently adhering to wood, masonry, metal studs and joists.
There are two basic types: closed-cell, rigid spray foam and "soft" or semi-flexible open-cell spray foams. See the article Learning the Difference between 1/2-lb and 2-lb Spray Polyurethane Foam for more information.
When it comes to insulating your project, choosing the right insulation material is pivotal. Both open cell and closed cell spray foam insulations offer unique benefits depending on the application. While open cell foam may offer cost savings and better sound absorption, closed cell foam provides superior moisture resistance and structural support.
Ultimately, the decision between the two depends on your specific priorities, budget, and what application the foam is being used in.
You can read more about their differences here and our experts can help you navigate these factors and ensure the best choice for an efficiently insulated and durable structure.
Unlike cellulose and fiberglass materials, closed-cell foam is impervious to water absorption and wicking. Yet, like Gortex® fabric, the closed-cell structure allows the passage of water vapor (high energy particles) to allow your home envelope to "breathe".
Liquid water has much larger particles and is unable to pass into or through a closed-cell foam barrier.
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You won't need house wrap with our system.
The air and moisture sealing effects of the spray polyurethane insulation are far superior to what house wraps can do. Don't waste your money on house wrap if you are insulating with spray polyurethane. -
You can encapsulate your entire exterior house shell with spray polyurethane.
This reduces energy loss from recessed lights and drop ceilings while minimizing any chance of frozen pipes in colder climates. In effect, this creates conditioned space everywhere including attics, basements, and crawlspaces. When ductwork is run through these areas, it is kept within conditioned space, substantially increasing the energy efficiency of your home. -
Spray polyurethane insulation will conform to any size or shape cavity.
Bay windows, oval windows, angled walls, sloped ceilings, or any other unusual framing designs can be well insulated and tightly sealed the same as the uniform spaced stud walls.
Several:
Our spray polyurethane insulation is sprayed on as a liquid which reacts and expands in place. This expansion action also seals all of the cracks and crevasses in your wall's exterior sheathing. The result is that air can no longer slip in: your house will be less drafty and more comfortable.
Air leakage can also introduce moisture into the wall cavity, resulting in wet insulation and mold and mildew. With the sealing effects of our spray polyurethane insulation, this will not be a concern.
Most house design professionals will advise you to seal the house structure as tight as possible and provide the necessary ventilation through the heating and air conditioning system.
Many systems employ an "air exchanger" which is designed to pre-condition (either warm or cool) the incoming outside air with the outgoing exhaust air.
In this manner, you can build an extremely energy efficient exterior shell using spray polyurethane foam while still providing controlled and energy efficient ventilation.
Yes. Building codes provide for the use of spray polyurethane insulation in the Foam Plastic section. This section of the code also describes the use of thermal barriers.
Normally spray polyurethane insulation is installed at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation. That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed.
If you decide to seal the entire exterior house shell with spray polyurethane, spray insulation may need to be applied in some areas before the ductwork is installed.
Yes. A popular retro-fit use for spray foam insulation calls for applying it to your basement / crawlspace walls and rim joist to massively increase your energy savings.
Another area is attics that need upgrades - baffles are installed and foam is sprayed directly to the underside of roofing system, or to knee walls in the attic area that are prone to leaking air. This can replace the conventional blown in insulation used in the ceilings in some scenarios, but not all.
One technology on the market is Injection Foam; injection foam is used to fill existing walls by drilling small holes and injecting the foam from the outside of the structure. After exhaustive research, we have determined the foam type necessary for this isn't up to our standards, so don't offer this service (it is formaldehyde based and offers very poor R-values). We have found the best time to upgrade to spray foam is when the wall cavity will already be exposed during a remodel.
- Glass fiber batts will not stop air leakage (it might filter out some dirt and dust).
- Blown-in cellulose will slow down air leakage.
- Spray polyurethane insulation will fully stop air leakage.
- Glass fiber batts have an R-value of about 3.5 (1-inch thickness).
- Blown-in cellulose has an R-value of about 3 to 4 (1-inch thickness).
- Spray applied polyurethane insulation has an R-value of 6.5 to 7 (1-inch thickness).
- Glass fiber batts can sag over time.
- Blown-in cellulose can settle over time.
- Spray polyurethane insulation completely adheres to wood and sheathing and is rigid; the result is a permanent barrier to heat loss and air entry.
- Spray polyurethane insulation will add strength and rigidity to your house. Glass fiber batts and blown-in cellulose will not.
Air Leakage:
R-value:
Lasting Ability:
Yes! The installed cost of spray polyurethane is somewhat higher than traditional fiber batts or blown-in cellulose. However, the higher initial cost is partially offset because you need not ventilate the roof, the HVAC system is downsized and you will save in your heating fuel and electric bills.
Studies suggest that homes insulated with spray polyurethane use 35 to 60 % less energy than homes insulated with conventional insulation. Your savings may be greater or less depending on your life style, appliances, house site, number and size of windows, etc.
When first installed, spray polyurethane foam's R-value is about 10 for a one-inch thickness.
Over time, the R-value drops to between 6.5 and 7.0 (one inch) and stabilizes at that value. The time it takes to reach an R-value of 6.5 to 7.0 depends on a variety of factors, including total foam thickness.
We report a six-month aged R-value. Many industry studies indicate that a one-inch thick sample of foam will stabilize after six months and maintain that approximate R-value for decades.
Spray polyurethane can be applied directly to electrical wiring. Recessed lights or other fixtures may require a certain amount of air circulation around them for cooling purposes.
In these cases, a box can be build around the fixture with gypsum wall board; then spray foam can be sprayed directly to the outside of the box.
Not that we're aware of. We've looked at 20-year old spray foam projects and we have not observed any signs of deterioration. We expect our spray polyurethane insulation system to insulate and seal your home for the life of the house.
Spray polyurethane foam was commercially developed in the United States in the mid-1960's. Homes have been insulated with spray foam since that time.
Most moisture problems in houses are due to moisture entry from air leakage. Because spray polyurethane insulation provides such an excellent air barrier, this source of moisture is virtually eliminated.
Other potential sources of moisture can be excluded with proper construction techniques and materials. Unusual building use (such as freezers or swimming pool buildings) may require a vapor retarder.
No.
Required equipment elements include a plural component proportioner pump with heaters, dual high pressure heated hoses, high pressure mixing and spray gun, and feed pumps and hoses. In addition, an air compressor and electrical generator may be needed.
Not practically. Spray polyurethane application requires complex equipment and a skilled installer.
Yes! Our closed cell foam is rigid and structural. Your walls will be more resistant to winds and you'll notice less creaking and shaking when doors are slammed or when the kids are romping about.
Quite quickly. A typical 2000 sf house can be fully prepped and insulated with spray polyurethane in less than several days. Large houses or houses with complex design features could take longer.